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I have four or five credit cards with zero balances that I have not used in at least six months. I'd like to close them, but I don't want to hurt my credit score. What do you think? My score is over 800. --
Closing card accounts you don't use is a good idea because card issuers are expected to impose all kinds of fees -- including inactivity fees -- now that the new credit-card law limits their ability to hike interest rates. For example,
But closing card accounts can lower your credit score because of the impact on your "credit-utilization ratio," which is the total of your credit-card balances divided by the credit limits on all of your cards. If you close cards you haven't used in a while but don't pay down the balances on your other cards, your score could drop because your total balance will account for a higher percentage of your overall credit limit.
The impact on your score depends on how much your credit utilization goes up. If your utilization ratio goes from, say, 7% to 15%, then your score will go down a modest amount, says
The best strategy is to pay down your balances before closing any card accounts so that you minimize the impact on your credit score. "A better long-term approach is to keep credit-card balances low," says
A bad deal for borrowers
I need cash fast. I know I'll be getting a fat tax refund, but I haven't had time to do my tax return yet. What do you think of refund-anticipation loans? -- R.L,
These loans are a bad deal for borrowers. True, they provide money equal to your tax refund quickly, but they generally charge high interest rates and fees. A study by the
You can get your refund in as few as ten days -- without fees or interest charges -- if you e-file your taxes with the
Roth-contribution redo
I put
It doesn't matter that you were single when you made the contribution. The fact that you were married by year-end means that you can't contribute to a Roth if your combined income on a joint return is more than
First, you can simply withdraw the
The second option is to "recharacterize" the Roth contribution as a nondeductible contribution to a traditional IRA. If you take this approach, you'll need to file a Form 8606 with your tax return reporting the contribution. Here's the good news: After you go through some paperwork to switch your contribution from a Roth to a traditional IRA, you can immediately convert the traditional IRA to a Roth.
Starting this year, the income-eligibility limit for Roth IRA conversions disappears, so anyone can convert to a Roth. If your traditional IRAs are funded, like your 2009 contribution, solely with after-tax contributions, you will owe taxes only on the earnings when you convert your IRA to a Roth. But if you've made both tax-deductible and nondeductible contributions to traditional IRAs over the years, then the tax-free portion of your conversion will be based on the ratio of nondeductible contributions to the total balance in all of your traditional IRAs.
Trimming investing losses
Given that stock prices have fluctuated so drastically over the past decade, do you think putting stop-loss orders on some or all of my stocks is a good idea? --
A stop-loss order is a reasonable way to give your stocks (or other kinds of investments) room to run while providing a measure of protection. If placed with your broker, such an order automatically triggers a sale when the stock reaches a set price. Say you own a stock that trades for
A "trailing stop-loss order" may be a better strategy. You set a stop-loss point for a certain number of dollars or a certain percentage below the stock's current price, and the order adjusts as the stock price rises. For example, if you put in a trailing stop-loss order of 10% on a stock that currently trades at
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