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Enjoying the Fruits of the Sea Sustainably

By Sean Conway, Tribune Media Services, Source: Cultivating Life by Sean Conway

If you have dined recently at a fine restaurant, you are well aware of the price that fresh shellfish commands. This, however, was not always the case. It may be hard to imagine today, but at one time shellfish -- and particularly lobster, the king of shellfish -- was found in such great abundance along beaches of the Atlantic shore that it was used to feed pigs rather than people.

Today, the demand for seafood outstrips the supply. This has led to the plateau, or in some cases the decline, of wild capture fisheries, and the depletion of some fish stocks.

As is the case with harvesting any natural resource, we should practice sustainability. One approach to solving the public's demand for seafood without depleting wild stocks is a practice called aquaculture. Simply put, aquaculture is raising seafood in a controlled way, much like farming. With a greater demand for fresh, healthy food, innovative ways of supplying it are helping to change our diet and our habits.

Consider what underwater farming has done for the cultivation of oysters. The highly sought after bivalves -- prized by some for their taste and by others for their legendary properties of turning ordinary men into Casanovas -- are now more widely available. What were once considered a delicacy only for the rich can now be enjoyed by anyone thanks to their availability in grocery stores and markets across the country.

Small aquaculture businesses are popping up in coastal waters in several states across the country to help supply the demand. According to Perry Raso, proprietor of the Matunuck Oyster Farm on the south coast of Rhode Island, aquaculture is currently the most rapidly expanding food-producing sector in the world. Enterprises like his can take advantage of broad distribution channels such as grocery store chains, not to mention a public attuned to the health benefits of seafood, to build thriving businesses.

In the upcoming episode of "Cultivating Life," we pay a visit to Perry's farm to see first hand how his operation works. I must admit that when I first heard about oyster farming, the idea was captivating. I daydreamed about being out on the water in a boat on a beautiful summer day with a mild breeze blowing. In reality, like all farming, aquaculture is hard work.

Perry explains the many steps involved in the two- to three-year process of cultivating his oysters. First, tiny oysters no larger than a pistachio shell are set out in mesh bags placed in even lines of knee-deep water like submerged rows of corn. After several weeks the bags are pulled from the water. The oysters are examined and graded, and then separated by size into different bags and returned to their underwater homes with more room to expand . This process continues for several years until the shellfish are large enough to harvest.

To some, two to three years may seem like a long time to wait before harvesting a crop, but after tasting Perry's oysters I can tell you firsthand it is well worth the wait.

For a great appetizer at your next cook out try this delicious recipe for grilled oysters:

Mix 1 tablespoon of fresh minced flat parsley leaves, (preferably straight from your garden), 1 tablespoon of fresh lemon juice, 1 teaspoon lemon zest, 2 minced garlic cloves, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes, and 1 teaspoon fresh chive flowers (optional, but wonderful for the mild flavor and the beautiful purple color) into 10 tablespoons of unsalted butter that has been left to soften at room temperature.

Fold the ingredients into butter, then place it onto a piece of plastic wrap and roll it into a log. Freeze until the log is firm.

Slice the frozen butter mixture into thin rounds about 1/4 inch thick. Top each shucked oyster with a butter round and place on a hot grill. Grill until the oysters curl at the edges, and the butter mixture is bubbling, about 4 to 6 minutes. Serve immediately.

(Sean Conway's television series, "Cultivating Life," airs Saturdays at 12:30 p.m. ET on WGN America. His new book, "Sean Conway's Cultivating Life" (Artisan Books, 2009), describes 125 projects for backyard living. www.cultivatinglife.com.)