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It's not really Irish, but enjoy it anyway

By Sharon Thompson, McClatchy Newspapers, Source: MCT News Service

On St. Patrick's Day, cooks turn Irish. They bake soda bread and cook corned beef and cabbage.

But, corned beef and cabbage is not really an Irish dish. Viki Pidgeon, author of "Deliciously Irish" (Pidgeon's Press, $20), said, "People in Ireland, the majority of people that is, couldn't afford beef. It was way too expensive. They primarily had cows for milk and cheese.

"When the Irish came to America, where salt was cheap compared to Ireland, they started making corned beef and cabbage. So the whole corned beef and cabbage is an Irish myth. Generally the Irish, even today, make a cabbage and bacon dish."

The best corned beef that Pidgeon ever made was in a Crock-Pot 35 years ago.

"I have lost the recipe, but I think it was in the recipe booklet that came with the Crock-Pot. I have been disappointed with my recipe selection ever since," she said.

John Torode, author of "Beef and Other Bovine Matters" (Taunton Press, $34.95), said in his book, "Making corned beef is not something many of us will do, but should you want to try, this is how to go about it.

"The thickness of the beef will determine how long it stays in the brine: a whole top round roast, which will be round like a soccer ball, will take 2 weeks, but a small book-shaped brisket takes about 4 days."

Corned beef is a cut of beef, usually brisket, that's cured in a seasoned brine for several days or as long as three weeks. Most cooks buy it already brined, but if you choose to do it yourself, here's Torode's recipe.

CORNED BEEF

6 1/2- to 8 1/2-pound piece ­boneless brisket, top round or bottom round, trimmed of any fat

4 1/2 quarts boiling water

2 1/2 pounds sea salt

3 cups packed brown sugar

	1/2 cup coriander seeds
	24 juniper berries
	12 black peppercorns
	12 allspice berries
	4 whole cloves
	2 cardamom pods
	6 cups ice cold water
	6 bay leaves

Under no circumstances should the meat have bone in, on or near it, as this will rot rather than pickle. Have the boiling water ready in a pot. Add the salt and sugar, and bring back to a boil.

Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan until almost smoking and throw in all the spices. Take off the heat and let the spices toast, shaking the pan a few times so they toast evenly. Tie the spices in a piece of cheesecloth or an old dish towel, then drop into the boiling water. Keep the water boiling for 15 minutes to dissolve the salt and sugar and make the liquid very salty. Then remove the boiling water from the heat, pour in the cold water and let cool.

Add the meat and bay leaves to the brine, making sure the meat is completely immersed, and cover tightly. Leave in the refrigerator for the time needed (see above). You can turn the meat every so often, but try just to let it bob about in the liquid. Once cured, it can be kept for a few days in the refrigerator.

CORNED BEEF AND DILLED CABBAGE

2 1/2- to 3 1/2-pound boneless corned beef brisket

1/4 cup honey

1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

Dilled cabbage:

1 medium head cabbage (about 2 pounds), cut into 8 wedges

3 tablespoons butter, softened

1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place corned beef brisket and 2 cups water in Dutch oven. Bring just to a simmer; do not boil. Cover tightly and cook in 350-degree oven 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours or until fork-tender.

About 20 minutes before brisket is done, steam cabbage 15 to 20 minutes or until tender.

Remove brisket from water; trim fat. Place on rack in broiler pan so surface of beef is 3 to 4 inches from heat.

Combine honey and 1 tablespoon mustard to make glaze. Brush top of brisket with half of glaze; broil 3 minutes. Brush with remaining glaze; broil 2 minutes or until glazed.

For dilled cabbage, combine butter, mustard and dill; spread on hot cabbage. Carve brisket diagonally across the grain. Serve with cabbage.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

From Kentucky Beef Council

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If you would like a simpler recipe, try this casserole.

SCALLOPED CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE

6 tablespoons butter

1 head green cabbage (1 1/2 to 2 pounds), cored and thinly sliced

3/4 pound baking potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon caraway seeds, divided

1/2 pound sliced corned beef

1/4 cup flour

2 cups whole milk

Salt and pepper

3/4 cup crushed potato chips (about 2 ounces)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large skillet, melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium-high heat. Add half the cabbage, half the potatoes and 1 1/2 teaspoons caraway seeds; cook, stirring often, until cabbage is slightly wilted and potatoes are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a 9- by 13-inch baking dish and top with half of the corned beef. Repeat with another tablespoon of butter and the remaining cabbage, potatoes and caraway seeds in skillet; transfer to baking dish and top with remaining corned beef.

In a medium saucepan, melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Whisk in flour, and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Whisk in milk gradually and cook, stirring, until sauce is smooth and thickened, 5 to 7 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Pour sauce over beef casserole and spread evenly with a knife. Top with potato chips and bake until golden-brown and bubbling, about 25 minutes.

From Every Day with Rachael Ray

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(c) 2010, Lexington Herald-Leader (Lexington, Ky.).

Visit the World Wide Web site of the Herald-Leader at http://www.kentucky.com/

Distributed by McClatchy-Tribune Information Services.

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