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Think pink for Valentine's Day

By Bill Daley, Chicago Tribune, Source: MCT News Service

Sparkling wine is an essential pour on Valentine's Day, especially when there are expectations of a sensual, one-on-one dinner. Heighten the sense of the moment by pouring a rose sparkling wine. You'll get extra bang for your buck, thanks to the romantic color.

Bubbly roses are often quite beautiful, with hues ranging from an elegant frosted pink to a salmon orange to a dark cherry red.

And roses don't have to be expensive. The taste panel recently sampled bubblies ranging in price from $9 to $53. Some were better than others, obviously, but the quality was not always linked to price.

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POURING POINTERS

Sparkling wines are served cold but not too cold, especially for finer quality brands. "The New Wine Lover's Companion" suggests three different serving temperature ranges: 40 to 44 degrees for inexpensive versions; 42 to 47 degrees for better non-vintage brands, 45 to 50 degrees for the best vintages.

If you have a nice wine bucket, chill the sparkling wine in a mix of water and ice for about 20 minutes. Wrap a napkin neatly around the neck of the bottle to catch any drips when pouring.

Open a bottle of sparkling wine slowly and carefully. Do not point the bottle at anyone or anything. Twist the bottle away from the cork, not vice-versa, keeping one of your hands palm-side down on top of the cork. As you twist, you'll feel the pressure building up behind the cork, and it should let go with, at most, the faintest pop and a whiff of vapor.

Pour sparkling wine into clear, unetched stemmed glasses to best appreciate both the color and the bubbles. Narrow, tall Champagne flutes are a nice touch, but small wine glasses work just as well.

Drink up! There's nothing drearier than flat bubbly. Sparkling wines come in various sizes; buy the one you think you and your guests will finish in one seating.

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NV J Brut Rose

This rose from California's Russian River Valley was so golden with just the palest touch of pink that you had to wonder if there was a mistake on the bottling line. Still, it won points for its balanced, lightly toasty and very French profile. Serve with roast chicken, oysters on the half shell, scallops in cream sauce.

$30

NV Charles de Cazanove Brut Rose Champagne

The two French Champagnes in the tasting tied for second place. This one, a pale salmon pink, had a light berry nose and landed fizzy on the tongue with a tart strawberry-lime flavor. Serve with roast duck, fettuccine Alfredo.

$45

NV Moet & Chandon Rose Imperial Champagne

Coppery pink with a creamy texture, this is austere, dry and slightly chalky. Look for notes of lime and toast. Serve with crab claws, boiled lobster, sole in white wine.

$53

NV Sergio Mionetto Rose

An Italian sparkler with an elegant berry flavor that leads to a tart snap on the finish. Serve with seared foie gras, caviar, chocolate cake.

$15

NV Cupcake Vineyards Pinot Noir Brut Rose

There's a crisp sweet-tart flavor to this French sparkling wine, and a soft, lemony nose. Serve with soy-glazed salmon, fried chicken, lobster ravioli.

$16

NV Freixenet Elyssia Pinot Noir Brut Cava

From Spain, this cava is colored a deep rose pink. It has a slightly earthy nose and a creamy, voluptuous mouth-feel. Berry notes predominate with a touch of citrus on the finish. Serve with paella, seared scallops, roast chicken.

$15

2006 Schramsberg Brut Rose

This north coast of California sparkler has a candied berry, red licorice nose and a full, almost outsize flavor. Look for berries, toast, lime and a touch of chalk in this French-style bubbly. Serve with sauteed halibut, crab souffle, stone crab claws.

$41

NV Barefoot Bubbly Rose Cuvee

This California sparkling wine smells like candy and has a tight, tart cherry flavor. Sharp finish. Serve with roast beef, cherry pie, red velvet cupcakes.

$9

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(c) 2010, Chicago Tribune.

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Distributed by McClatchy-Tribune Information Services.

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PHOTO (from MCT Photo Service, 202-383-6099): uncorked